10 Steps to Winterizing Your Drip Irrigation System

     

The harvest is over, the memory of summer is fading, and the cold is creeping in. Time to hang the storm windows, clean the gutters, and winterize your drip irrigation system. Though necessary, like all such tasks, we'll likely drag our feet unless we have a distinct plan laid out to help us achieve our goal. We can't push you out the door but we'll do our best to make it easier by providing a simple 10 step plan.

1. Shut off the Water at the Spigot

I know this seems like a no-brainer but the last thing you want is disconnect a pressurized line and end up cold and soaking wet. Learn from the wisdom of my experience. Been there, done that. While you're at it, be sure to drain any pumps, back flow prevention devices, sprinkler heads, air bleed valves, and any other component that may hold water internally. If you live in an area prone to prolonged freezes, you'll want to wrap any exposed risers and spigots with some type of insulation.

      

    

2. Disconnect timers, drain, remove the batteries, and store indoors

Timers can be one of the more expensive (and essential) elements in your drip irrigation system. Bringing them indoors will protect that investment. Though the fresh batteries you installed last spring probably still have some life in them, you won't want to use them again next season and risk having them run down while you're out of town. Instead, save them for some less mission critical application like holiday toys and electronics. Users manuals for our timers and controllers can be found under the Specs tab for each product.

      

   3. Disconnect filters, drain, and store indoors

Filters hold a significant amount of water, so draining them seems obvious. But storing them inside for the winter will also keep hornets and insects from taking up residence within, setting up a possible clog situation when you start up your system in the spring. This is also a good opportunity to inspect and clean screens, o-rings, and washers. Soaking screens in a solution of white vinegar is usually sufficient to loosen debris and mineral scale buildup. If needed, replacement screens, washers, and O-rings are available.

      

4. Disconnect pressure regulator/limit valve, drain, and store indoors

As one of the easiest “to do” items on the list there’s little to say. Normally installed after the filter, all you need do is unscrew the regulator or limit valve and shake out any water. When dry, store it in a plastic bag to insure no critters crawl inside. 

      

   5. Install Hose Plug on end of mainline

A hose plug will keep dirt, debris, and insects from creating a possible clog when you fire up your system in the spring. The hose threads screw right into the end of a female hose start, sealing off the mainline and downstream lines. At about a buck and a half per unit, this fitting is truly cheap insurance.

      

     

6. Open manual valves and set electric valves to manual open

If your valves are not installed in a valve box, you may want to take the additional step of wrapping them in insulation or plastic bags. If valves are installed in a manifold situation, be sure the manifold fittings have emptied out also. Consult the manufacturer’s manual for exact instructions. If connected to a timer, go ahead and run it through its regular cycle. This will open the valves and drain the water from your system. 

      

   

7. Disconnect fertilizer injectors, drain, and store indoors

Drain out any water, store or use any leftover fertilizer, and put the injector away until spring. Some injectors, like the EZ-FLO unit shown at the right, have parts that will seal the lines for storage. Others, like the Mazzei venturi-style injectors, need to be disconnected from any bypass unit for draining. MixRite injectors are self-contained and draining is relatively straight forward. Consult the manufacturer's manual for exact instructions. Here's a link to the EZ-FLO Winterization Guide.

   

8. Drain hose splitters and hose ‘Y’s

These fittings tend to trap water behind the valves making them prone to freezing and breaking. Even heavy duty brass fixtures, like the one at the right, are no match for the relentless pressure of expanding ice. Open individual valves to drain, then wrap the fitting in insulation or disconnect it and bring it indoors until spring.

      

   

9. Drain mainlines, branch lines, emitter tubing, and drip tape lines

If your system is on a slope this can be as simple as removing a flush cap on the downhill end of your lines. You can also install a flush valve or drain valve at the end of your lines which will automatically open up and dump out any water in the lines when the pressure drops below 3 PSI. Another strategy is to install an emitter at the lowest point of your system, allowing any standing water to slowly drain at that point.

      

   

 

10. Lubricate Gaskets, O-rings, and Washers

Apply a small amount of Hose Washer O-ring Lubricant to any gaskets, O-rings, or washers to prevent them from drying out and cracking over the winter. This will keep the rubber fittings supple, insuring watertight seals are maintained and leakage is minimized. Once you've tried this handy lubricant you'll probably find a dozen other uses for it around the house and garden.





Click here to print a copy of the checklist you can take into the garden.

Remember, winterizing will not only protect your system but prolong its life. Now go ahead and grab yourself a hot beverage and a cookie. You've earned it!

For more information about maintaining your drip irrigation system, consult our free Drip Planning Guide and FAQ resources.